For example Sid Harvey's Dyna-Couple universal mounting thermocouple, sold in lengths from 18" to 48" will replace Honeywell, Robertshaw, Penn Baso, White-Rodgers and other thermocouples. Doing so risks fire, explosion, injury, even death. How to Troubleshooting Thermocouples on Gas Fired Heating Equipment First confirm that the problem is the thermocouple Typically the gas control is pushed-in or held in a spring-loaded position to force gas through the pilot light assembly to permit manually lighting the pilot flame.
If you are able to light the pilot on the gas fired appliance but when you release the gas control from it's "LIGHT" position the pilot immediately goes out, if there was a good solid flame that was clearly touching and heating the thermocouple, that is, the thermocouple was properly positioned in the pilot flame, and if you are sure that you held the control in the LIGHT position long enough for the thermocouple to heat up normally 30 seconds is plenty , then I suspect that the thermocouple is defective.
Watch out : Before trying a new thermocouple I'd suggest checking for debris in the pilot light orifice or tubing. In gas fired equipment that remains shut down for long intervals we sometimes find spiders or insects have nested in the equipment, even mud-dauber wasps, blocking proper gas flow or gas appliance venting.
We have run into this problem and also read other accounts of it concerning the Gaffers and Sattler Model S 80 FDF gas fired furnace and similar gas fired heating equipment but this debris clog problem is widespread and may show up on just about any pilot-lit gas fired appliance, even gas log fireplaces and portable heaters.
Gaffers and Sattler was an appliance brand kitchen ranges, heating equipment, air conditioning owned by Maytag and actually preceded "Maytag" as a company name.
Magic Chef found its way back to Maytag in If you are looking for parts for Gaffers and Sattler equipment check with Maytag.
Check for debris blockage right at the pilot light, inside the gas tube between the pilot light and the gas control valve, and using a fine wire don't scratch or enlarge the orifice try cleaning the orifice at the pilot light itself.
What would cause standing pilot flame to keep going out. Many modern gas fired heating appliances, boilers, furnaces, water heaters, use an electronic ignition or spark to light the pilot. On these appliances there may still be a thermocouple to confirm that there is a good gas flame when the burner is on - since we don't want to continue supplying gas if there is no flame doing so risks an explosion.
If your appliance has a flexible electrical wire that connects to a sparking device at the burner or burner pilot, the appliance has no continuously-on pilot - you do not have to light the pilot manually.
In addition to finding electrical wires leading to an igniter at the gas burner or gas pilot, you will also see a tag such as that shown on this gas valve on an A.
Smith gas fired Direct Igntiion water heater photo at close left. The thermocouples used in building mechanical systems are generally type K: thermocouples used in heating boilers, calorifiers, geyers, gas burner applications flame sensors. Type K thermocouples are widely used in industrial applications involving water, mild chemical solutions, hospitals and the food industry. Here, courtesy of Pyrosales, an Australian provider of thermocouple devices, is a complete list of the types of thermocouples and their applications.
On by mod - white box on wall by furnace kept beeping so I threw it away! Jesse MacLean, Watch out : that sounds to me like a carbon monoxide monitor alarm - if so, potentially atal carbon monoxide gas is present; people in the building could be killed. Leave the heater off and do not try to run it before it has been inspected for safe proper operation and repaired as necessary.
If you ignore this advice you could be responsible for many deaths including your own. Every time my furnace turns on this white box on the wall starts making an ear piercing beep. It has a number display on it and when it starts beeping it is always some random number between 50 and , but the number steadily increases as time goes by.
He is a real cheap scape. Any advice? Martin: The flame height or strength on a gas burner pilot light is not itself usually adjustable, though if the pilot orifice is clogged you might need to clean or replace that part to get the proper flame size.
The flame position or that of the thermocouple that must be immersed in the flame are often adjustable by loosening a mounting screw or on occasion by gentle bending of a metal bracket. However on some older gas appliances llike gas ranges and stoves, a small set screw near the pilot can adjust the flame height. I'd clean all of the components, tighten the connection at the gas valve, and if the flickering continues I'd replace the thermopile or thermocouple.
I am troubleshooting an older Williams wall heater. Flame color is good. The heater works well. The continuous flicker noise is disturbing. Karen Good for you kiddo I'm older than you for being able to replace the thermocouple; The most-common snafus I've encountered when a new thermocouple did not work have been 1. On - by mod - gas valve won't open: black wires at the thermocouple?
Karen Take a look and post a photo of where those two black wires lead. Those devices sense dangerous spillage of flue gases, are usually heat-activated, and some models require that the switch be manually-reset by pressing a reset button on the switch after it has cooled. This thermocouple has a little side thing on the connector that has two black wires.
Now I cannot get the pilot to even try to light. I seem to remember reading something about them being for safety or something. I had to leave the door open to the heater because the connector sticks out too far and when moved the pilot goes out. Any advice. I could replace the thermocouple again, but now I cannot find one with that extra wire thing.
Do I have to have that? Our standard range of Mineral Insulated Thermocouples are shown below, however if you need something specifically to suit your requirements contact us as we also manufacture to order.
Mineral Insulated thermocouples are robust, flexible, can be made in long lengths and with a broad range of diameters. Hand Held Thermocouples. We also manufacture handheld Pt RTDs with custom made products available on request. When selecting the right thermocouple sensors, there are many things that need to be considered. Customers often come to us with a drawing, specification, photo or just an idea of what they want and we generally take it from there.
By asking a few questions we can normally work out what thermocouple you want. However, in many cases our customers are left to source items with minimal information provided to them from a third party customer or engineer within the organisation. Alternatively, you may simply have a new application which needs temperature measurement and have never purchased this type of product. Again, we are able to help. Below we discuss the 7 steps you need to consider in order to get the right thermocouples for your application.
Do you know the thermocouple type you need? Such as type K , T, or J. If not, this is the first thing you need to consider. Whatever you are connecting the thermocouple to normally determines this. Also, this will determine the thermocouple accuracy. What is being measured? Is the thermocouple measuring a liquid, surface or a gas? Does it have to sit in a pipe or a vessel or is it part of a machine or apparatus? What considerations need to be thought about?
How is the thermocouple fixed to the application, such as; wall mounted, hand held, outside or inside. Does it need a fitting to be held in place? What is the thermocouple being connected to? Does it need a terminal head, connector, wire or transmitter? If you can answer these questions, then you should be able to determine the thermocouple you want. To help you, we have an easy to use questionnaire which can be completed and returned to us, or you can simply call or email us with your questions, we are here to help.
A practical guide to help you choose the right product for your application. We have developed this questionnaire to assist customers in choosing the thermocouple they require.
If you have limited or no experience with thermocouples this questionnaire is easy. It simplifies the process of selecting sensors by providing you with guidelines to gather your specification. Each thermocouple type has different characteristics which determine its suitability for different applications. Our thermocouple information chart below displays temperature range, colour code and conductor material for each thermocouple type, making it easier for you to find the right thermocouple for your application.
The IP Code, International Protection Marking, IEC standard , sometimes interpreted as Ingress Protection Marking, classifies and rates the degree of protection provided against intrusion body parts such as hands and fingers , dust, accidental contact, and water by mechanical casings and electrical enclosures.
The equivalent British standard is EN The standard aims to provide users more detailed information rather than vague marketing terms such as " waterproof". Many of our Thermocouple Sensors are supplied with heads that are IP rated, the following table shows what the codes mean and how they are made up.
University of Cambridge - Thermocouple operating principles. National Physics Laboratory - What is a Thermocouple? Yes, you can still use your thermocouple probe.
Underneath the PTFE is a stainless-steel probe which can still be used and will remain accurate. Yes, you can bend your thermocouple probe. Bending the thermocouple probe will not harm the probe unless bent to excess. Bending the thermocouple probe will allow for a more accurate reading in most cases, compared to when just the tip of the probe is sitting in the solution or vapor you are trying to monitor.
Join the Lab Society. Thermocouples Explained. Complete Thermocouple Probe and Adapter Guide Save yourself hassle and unnecessary breakage of your gear by learning how to operate it properly. Use this handy, step-by-step guide to use your probes and glass adapters like a pro!
Straighten the probe The probe should be straightened before insertion into a thermocouple adapter. Unscrew the cap on the adapter Once the probe has been straightened, you can now unscrew the Chemthread cap on the thermocouple adapter. Place the Chemthread cap onto the probe Start by inserting the Chemthread cap onto the probe, followed by the O-Ring, and finally by the glass adapter.
Tighten the Chemthread cap After inserting the probe, tighten it in place using the Chemthread cap. Bend the thermocouple as needed! Insert the probe First, insert the stir bar by turning the boiling flask on an angle and gently inserting the stir bar into the lowest resting neck.
Need to remove the probe? Unscrew the Chemthread cap Once the thermocouple probe has been straightened, you can now unscrew the Chemthread cap completely, releasing the glass adapter and allowing the user to remove the probe from the adapter in a smooth and easy fashion. What is a Thermocouple?
Do thermocouple adapters leak? What if there is still a leak? Are temperature probes supposed to move?
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